One of our trip goals is to learn the Argentine tango. We expected that this would keep us occupied in Buenos Aires, but little did we guess that this would keep us up nights in Mendoza.
We looked for teachers via the internet before arriving here, and found Ana and Luis. http://www.anayluistango.com.ar. We got lucky, this couple are the heart of the tango community here. They hold group classes three times a week at a community center, give private lessons, and organize ‘Milongas’ or dances at a dinner club two other nights.
Tom called them on Tuesday, the day after we got here to ask about lessons, they suggested we come talk to them at the studio that very evening at 9:00 PM. This was pretty late – we didn’t realize that this was the START time for their group lesson. Before you could say (tan)go, we were in the group, walking to the tango rhythm for the next two hours.
All instructions are in Spanish, so you quickly learn the words for left, right, forward and back, but it seemed that our feet were hard wired in English. None the less, with coaching from Ana and Luis, we managed to move in a halting tango-like fashion.
Tango is a very physical dance. It has its roots in Buenos Aires in the late 1800’s when there was a lot of immigration from Europe — men who had left their families behind for better opportunities. The first dancers were men dancing with other men, with music improvised on flute, violin and guitar. . Then the tango evolved into the bordellos.
The women of these houses gave the current costumes for tango their inspiration. The posture of the dancers is your first hint of what is to follow—the woman leans her upper torso well forward of a normal position, draping herself on her partner. This is very unlike the ballroom dances of waltz and foxtrot. When you see two good dancers, your first thought is “Get a room!”.
The drill for the group lessons is simple – first about 20-30 minutes of practicing basics – walking, turning, following the music. Then Ana and Luis demonstrate a few beginner and intermediate steps. The rest of the class is practice.
The practice group is very friendly and supportive – the better dancers pair off together, but make a point of helping the beginners. One couple bring their 2-year-old daughter, who has mastered the Tango walk. Ana and Luis circulate giving pointers and encouragement.
We followed up with another group lesson on Thursday and then a private lesson on Friday. Here’s a shot of Michelle in the private lesson with Luis:
We dropped in on their Milonga on Sunday night. It ‘started’ at 9:00 PM, and we were the first to arrive at 9:15. Another couple arrived soon after – but we recognized them from the bike ride in Maipu the previous day, also early because they were also foreigners. No matter, we ordered a glass of wine and got up to dance (very, very badly – we only knew 2-3 steps).
Around 10:00 PM, dancers started to arrive – many that we recognized from the group lessons. During the evening, they made a point of coming over to dance with us – to make sure we were having a good time. Ana and Luis also dragged us out to the floor as well.
We have been ‘adopted’ into the tango family in Mendoza.